The Man Behind Hollywood's Glamour and Fashion

Early Life in Naugatuck

Adrian Greenburg, born and raised in Naugatuck, Connecticut, was part of one of the few Jewish families in town. His parents ran a milliner’s shop, immersing Adrian in fabrics and hats from an early age. As a child fan of The Wizard of Oz, Adrian often sketched the book’s characters after school.

He graduated from Naugatuck High School in 1921 and studied at the New York School of Fine and Applied Arts before transferring to its Paris branch. While in Paris, he was encouraged to adopt the name "Gilbert Adrian" to conceal his Jewish identity—a name that would later become synonymous with Hollywood glamour.

The Rise of a Hollywood Legend

Adrian’s talent was discovered by Irving Berlin, who hired him to design costumes for Broadway. This opportunity led Adrian to Hollywood, where he became MGM’s chief costume designer in 1928. Over the next 13 years, he designed costumes for over 250 films, working with some of the biggest stars of the era and creating trends that transcended the silver screen.

Adrian’s screen credit, “Gowns by Adrian,” became a hallmark of glamour, cementing his legacy as one of the most influential costume designers of Hollywood’s Golden Age.

Iconic Designs and Notable Films

• The Merry Widow (1925)

• Letty Lynton (1932) – Joan Crawford’s white organdy gown set off a fashion trend.

• Grand Hotel (1932) – Costumed Greta Garbo and Joan Crawford.

• Camille (1936) – Styled Garbo in elegant, character-defining costumes.

• Marie Antoinette (1938) – Designed elaborate costumes for Norma Shearer.

• The Wizard of Oz (1939) – Created iconic designs, including the ruby slippers and Dorothy’s blue gingham dress.

• The Women (1939) – Styled the female cast, including Joan Crawford and Rosalind Russell.

• Lovely to Look At (1952) – Adrian’s final film project before focusing entirely on fashion.

Collaborations with Hollywood's Biggest Stars

• Joan Crawford – Adrian’s partnership with Crawford included Letty Lynton and Grand Hotel.

• Greta Garbo – His costumes in Camille and Grand Hotel enhanced Garbo’s elegance.

• Katharine Hepburn – Designed costumes for The Philadelphia Story (1940), showcasing Hepburn’s preference for practical yet stylish clothing, including trousers, which became part of her signature look.

• Judy Garland – His work in The Wizard of Oz is perhaps his most enduring contribution, with the ruby slippers becoming an iconic piece of film history.

Adrian Ltd. and Perfume Ventures

After leaving MGM in 1941, Adrian established his own fashion brand, Adrian, Ltd., in Beverly Hills. His designs became popular for their clean lines and practical elegance, appealing to American women during World War II when European fashion exports were limited. The Adrian, Ltd. label produced both made-to-order couture and ready-to-wear collections, making his designs accessible beyond Hollywood. His brand became known for combining glamour with wearability, and his clothes were sold through boutiques in stores like Macy’s.

Adrian also ventured into fragrance, creating two perfumes—"Sinner" and "Saint." These perfumes, known for their luxurious packaging, reflected Adrian’s duality of bold glamour and understated elegance. Both fragrances complemented the brand's identity, helping to extend his influence into lifestyle products.

Adrian’s combination of fashion and fragrance helped pioneer the integration of personal style and scent as part of a designer’s brand, similar to what later fashion houses would do with great success.

A Distinctive Approach to Design

Adrian preferred to create all designs himself, sometimes sketching up to 75 ideas in a single day. His practical and artistic approach ensured that his costumes enhanced the star’s presence on screen. For instance, his decision to change Dorothy’s silver slippers to ruby red took full advantage of Technicolor and became a memorable part of film history.

Legacy and Final Years

Adrian’s health began to decline after a heart attack in 1952, prompting the closure of Adrian, Ltd. He spent time in Brazil with his wife, actress Janet Gaynor, before briefly returning to costume design. In 1959, while working on the Broadway musical Camelot, Adrian passed away suddenly at the age of 56.